The modern T-shirt is a symbol of modern fashion and has helped to create a huge textile and fashion industry that contributes more than two-billion dollars to the global retail trade. The birth of the tee shirt was an unlikely event. However, this modest piece of attire would change the fashions and styles of cultures for many generations. The T-Shirt was eventually used as a tool of protest and, in certain places and times in history, as a symbol for revolution and change.
The t-shirt started out as a simple piece of underwear. It was very utilitarian. The union suit (also known as longjohns) was popular in the late 19th century. It was worn all over America and Europe. The modest knitted one piece covered the entire body, from the neck to your wrists and ankles. The designs pièce de résistance featured a drop flap in the back for ease of use in the old outhouse. Underwear manufacturers saw an opportunity to offer an alternative to the traditional, cumbersome design. It is hard to sew and cut knitted material seams. This could lead to a shift towards mass-made fashion.
Europe was changing and as Americans were still itching and sweating, a simple “T”-shaped template was created from two pieces of cotton cloth. The two pieces were then faced and stitched together at a European workhouse. It started out as half a pair o long johns. But it soon became its own thing. Henry T. Ford, who created the first production line in the world, was the catalyst for the Industrial Revolution. The ideas of efficiency, functionalism, and utilitarianism became mainstream concepts across the globe, including Europe. The Victorian-styled modesty of Victorian Victorians was being challenged. Short-sleeved shirts, ankle-bearing skirts and scantier swimsuits were replacing Victorian’s buttoned down ideas of modesty. The dawn of World War One was approaching, and the tee-shirt was soon to be conscripted into the army.
Historiologists believe that the first documented incident of the introduction to the United States of the T-shirt occurred during World War One. It was then that US soldiers noted the light cotton uniforms worn by European soldiers. American soldiers were furious that their government was still issuing woolen uniforms. This wasn’t fashion and it was a tactical military disadvantage. With sweaty eyes and a burning sensation in his eyes, how could a sniper aim his rifle without moving? Although the US army didn’t react as quickly as they would have liked, the practical and lightweight t-shirt was soon reintroduced to the American mainstream.
Their easily identifiable shape and desire for a better title led to the creation of the term “T-shirt”. People all over the globe began to use the new and more comfortable T-shirt as an alternative to the old union shirt. A handful of American experts suggest that the name “T-shirt” was created in 1932, when Howard Jones asked “Jockey”, an American designer, to create a new sweat-absorbing shirt specifically for the USC Trojans football program. The US army disputes the claim that the name came from army training shirts. However, practicality soon made it a reality. Another theory is less well-known and more graphic. The idea that the shorter arms are similar to an amputee’s torso is a popular one. Although it cannot be confirmed, this theory has a dark ring of truth. The T-shirt became a standard underwear item for all ranks of the U.S. Army, Navy during World War II. While the T-shirt was meant to be underwear, soldiers engaged in strenuous battle games and construction work, especially those who are based in warmer climates would often wear a T-shirt that is uncovered. Life magazine published a cover story featuring a photo of a soldier in a T-shirt that read “Air Corps Gunnery School” on July 13, 1942.
The European trend of wearing T-shirts as outerwear, mainly inspired by the new US army uniforms in the early years after World War Two was popularized by the American civilian population. The New York Times reported in 1948 that a new marketing tool was developed for the campaign of Thomas E. Dewey, New York Governor. It was the first ever “slogan” T-shirt. It read “Dew It For Dewey”, and was closely followed by the famous “I Like Ike”, T-shirts from Dwight D. Eisenhower’s presidential campaign.
In the 1950s, florida-based entrepreneurs began decorating tee shirts in Floridian resort names or cartoon characters. Tropix Togs was founded by Sam Kantor, a Miami entrepreneur. It is the first known graphic t-shirt catalog. They were the first to license Walt Disney characters such as Mickey Mouse and Davy Crockett. Other companies later expanded into the tee-shirt printing business, including Sherry Manufacturing Company, which is also located in Miami.
Sherry was founded in 1948. Quinton, the founder and owner, quickly recognized the new T-shirt fashion and quickly expanded the company to be the largest screen print licensed apparel manufacturer in the United States. Soon more and more celebrities were seen on national TV sporting this new risqué apparel including John Wayne, and Marlon Brando. The T-Shirt was given street credibility by James Dean in 1955’s classic movie “Rebel Without a Cause”. The T-Shirt quickly became a symbol of rebellion and youth. The initial outrage and public outcry quickly dissipated and the T-Shirt became a symbol of rebellious youth. Within a short time, even the American Bible Belt was able to see its practicality.
The basic cotton T-Shirt became a commercial hit when screenprinting and tie dye were made. With advances in printing technology and dying, there were many variations to the T-Shirt. Many independent T-shirt printers produced copies of “Guerrillero Heroico”, or Heroic Guerilla, during this period of cultural experimentation, and upheaval. This famous portrait of Ernesto “Che”, Guevara, was taken by Alberto “Korda” Diaz. It is the most widely reproduced photograph in photography history, thanks to the popularity of the T-shirt.
The 1960’s saw the birth of the “Ringer shirt”, which was a classic fashion choice for rock-n-rollers as well as youth. Screen-printing and tie-dyeing were also popularized in this decade. “Plastisol”, an ink that is more durable and stretches better, was created in 1959. This allowed for more variety in T-shirt designs. The introduction of new T-shirts styles was quick as textile technologies improved. These included the tank top, A-shirt (famously known as the “wife beater”) and muscle shirt.
Throughout the Psychedelic era, more and better T-shirts were created. At the burgeoning music festivals in America and Western Europe, a tidal wave began to emerge of tie-died T-shirts. In the West Coast hippie scene, it became a mandatory dress code by the end of the 60’s. Another popular type of T shirt was the band T-shirt. These were cheaply printed and sold at concerts and live gigs. The tradition continues today, although the price has increased dramatically.
1975: Vivienne Westwood opens the “Sex” shop at 430 King’s Road in London. She sells her Punk-style tees, including the famous “God Save The Queen”. Punk was the catalyst for a surge in independent fashion designers, and t-shirt designers specifically. Today, many modern designs are influenced by the rebellious and anarchic times of Western culture.
The T-shirt market was transformed by the 1980’s corporate funding. Slogan T-shirts were becoming more popular. “Choose Life” was made to promote George Micheal’s debut album. “Frankie Says”, which helped propel a series of controversial singles to #1 on the UK charts, was produced by “Frankie Goes to Hollywood”, a Liverpool-based band. A lot of T-shirts were being sold by anyone who wanted cheap promotion. The now-famous “Feed the World T-shirt” was an exception. It was designed to raise funds and awareness for Band Aid, the groundbreaking charity event.
T-Shirt production and printing technology improved dramatically in the 80’s, 90’s. Early forms of D.T.G printing (Direct to Garment Transfer), increased both volume and availability. As the American T-Shirt became a commodity item within the apparel industry, financial markets around the world took notice.
The industry was quickly dominated by corporate branding. There was a whole new generation of Tshirts on the market. They promoted conformity and allegiance, like Nike, over individuality. This uninspiring practice continues to this day with the “Vintage82”, a T-shirt by Next. This design became so popular that it was no longer printed for more than a few years. Then, cheap copies and knockoffs on the black market flooded the market. Many similar designs have a limited shelf-life culturally.
A recent movement to repoliticize the T shirt has allowed pressure groups to get their message out to a wider audience. At the anti-Iraq rally, over one million marched through London wearing an array of anti-war, anti Bush and pro Blair T shirts. Similar to the Band Aid events, another example was when The Make Poverty History campaign received worldwide media coverage. Soon after VivienneWestwood returned to the T-shirt scene with her slogan T-shirt, “I am no terrorist, please do not arrest me”, she was back in the spotlight. Catherine Hamnett, another well-known British fashion designer, is famous for her protest Tshirts. These include her work to highlight Third World Debt and the Aids epidemic. Catherine was quoted recently as saying that political slogan shirts make it seem like they are participating in democratic action, when in reality they just shop for clothes. Although this may be true, they still attract a lot of media attention to any cause.
T-shirts have been an integral part of every fashionable wardrobe for many years. There are many styles and cuts to choose from thanks to technical advancements in the industry. These T-shirts, which can be extended to the knees by skaters and hip hop artists, are very popular. Seasons change. However from time to time, the female market adopts tighter fitting “cropped T-shirts, which are cut shorter enough to show the midriff. It is becoming a staple in street fashionistas’ wardrobes.
There has been a huge consumer backlash against corporate and licensed tee-shirt markets that are branded too conformist. Consumers are finally gaining their individuality back. They don’t like the idea of being tied to a brand. People want to be able to express themselves, their political beliefs, and sense of humor. You can design your own T-shirts online with the help from a variety of D.I.Y. t-shirt printing companies, such as “Cafe Press” or “Threadless”, to name just two. However, many people do not have the time or inclination to design their own artwork. Thus, the rise of the independent designer T-shirt. Artists, graphic designers, and other renegades in the fashion industry are starting to be noticed. A modern T-shirt’s greatest asset is its originality. This is a quality that will continue to be in demand both now and in the future.
