The S1 is the most recent superfast Delta 3D printer from FLSun, with a futuristic fashion that feels prefer it was beamed down from the Starship Enterprise. Boasting acceleration charges as much as 40,000mm/s², and a high velocity of 1200mm/s, it’s the quickest printer I’ve had in my workshop so far.
FLSun packed quite a lot of options into this 3D printer. The machine is absolutely enclosed, with a hardened metal high-flow nozzle, closed-loop stepper motors, LIDAR detection, an air filter, and sensors out the wazoo. It could actually (sorta) let you know how a lot filament is left on the roll by weight, cease when it finds a clog or particles on the plate, and naturally ranges the mattress for an ideal first layer. It additionally comes with a digicam for monitoring prints and has a built-in filament dryer. To save lots of power, the machine may be set to show itself off after a print is completed.
Sadly, the printer is missing within the accuracy division, largely resulting from a slapped-together customized slicer. Although the prints are remarkably quick with beautiful floor high quality, I wasn’t in a position to get precision components out of it till I turned the circulate means down and arrange Orca Slicer. Our Torture Toaster, Calibration Fort, and collapsible sword all locked up tight at default settings when utilizing its personal slicer. It is like being given a sports activities automotive with bald tires — certain, it’s quick, nevertheless it’s no enjoyable to drive for those who hold ending up within the ditch.
The printer was additionally blessed with an overabundance of cooling energy, offered by a CPAP turbofan with 40,000 RPM. The fan is tucked into the printer’s higher compartment and blows air down a tube to the hotend. Its ear-piercing, high-pitched whine may be heard from the opposite finish of the home. Decreasing the fan to 85% supplies sufficient cooling with a tolerable, but sadly nonetheless annoying, stage of noise.
The FLSun S1 was so massive — each in measurement and weight — I couldn’t set it up in my studio. Although the footprint is just below two toes sq., it’s 42 inches tall and may’t clear the RepRack spool shelf I’ve mounted close to the ceiling. The printer weighs 95 kilos, so I had to purchase a brand new heavy-duty shelving unit simply to get it off the ground. The IKEA finish desk I had positioned its predecessor, the FLSun V400, wasn’t sturdy sufficient to carry it.
This machine has a lot wasted potential. FLSun actually dropped the ball with their half-hearted customized slicer. Fortunately, I discovered a profile for OrcaSlicer proper earlier than ending this overview that gave me hope the printer may be saved. With a price ticket of $1,499, it’s not a printer I’d advocate for newcomers, however there’s no denying its velocity and futuristic flare. It will not be the Greatest 3D Printer I’ve seen this 12 months, nevertheless it’s undoubtedly the quickest.
Specs: FLSun S1
| Construct Quantity | ⌀320 x 430mm (⌀12.6 x16.9 inches) |
| Materials | PLA/PETG/TPU/ABS (as much as 350 levels) |
| Extruder Sort | Direct Drive |
| Nozzle | .4mm V6 Hardened Metal |
| Construct Platform | PEI Spring Metal, Heated |
| Mattress Leveling | LIDAR Auto Leveling |
| Filament Runout Sensor | Sure |
| Connectivity | USB, Wi-Fi |
| Interface | Built-in colour contact display screen |
| Machine Footprint | 550 x 595 x 1030mm (21.6 x 19.8 x 19.1 inches) |
| Machine Weight | 41kg (90 kilos) |
Included within the field: FLSun S1
The FLSun S1 comes with the whole lot you could get began: instruments to construct and preserve the printer, facet cutters, a nozzle cleaner, grease, and a USB drive. You additionally get a spare hotend equipment and a 500 gram spool of filament.
There’s a paper copy of the consumer guide, and the USB drive has a replica of the FLSun Slicer. Take a look at fashions are loaded within the printer’s reminiscence.
Assembling the FLSun S1
The FLSun S1 arrives largely assembled. You solely have to plug in a couple of cords, pop the entrance panel containing the display screen on the underside, then connect the entrance door.
Warning: The entrance door is packed in such a means that it seems hooked up. It’s not. In the event you’re the sort to start out ripping off packing materials earlier than studying the meeting instructions, you’ll be in for a shock.
Leveling the FLSun S1
The FLSun S1 comes with LIDAR and a bunch of sensors for computerized mattress leveling and calibration. Simply push a button, and the machine does the remainder. I didn’t have any points with mattress leveling.
If you could regulate the nozzle peak for a pesky filament (like PETG), there’s a restricted quantity of z peak obtainable from the tuning display screen.
Loading Filament within the FLSun S1
Loading filament within the FLSun S1 is a bit tough because of the completely spool-shaped gap within the built-in filament drying on the highest of the machine.
I discovered it mandatory to carry the spool in my left hand and feed the strand into the Bowden tube with my proper. When you attain the instrument head (a number of toes of Bowden tube later), you need to use the short launch on the tubing and shove the previous few inches dwelling.
Although I used to be in a position to feed TPU the traditional means, it’s far simpler to make use of a desk mounted spool and use the secondary filament path. You’ll have to show off the filament runout sensor, which you are able to do from the management panel.
There’s a critical flaw within the Klipper config file that controls unloading filament. The printer doesn’t know to push the filament ahead a bit to melt and launch it from the nozzle. Nevertheless, that is straightforward to repair — for those who don’t thoughts stepping into the code.
Right here’s what the altered macro appears like:
[gcode_macro UNLOAD_FILAMENT] #unload filament
gcode:
M117 unload_filament heating accomplished!
G91 ; Change to relative positioning
G1 E10 F300 ; Advance the filament by 10mm
G1 E-60 F300 ; Retract the filament by 60mm (10mm greater than the unique retraction to make sure it clears the hotend)
G90 ; Change again to absolute positioning
SET_STEPPER_ENABLE STEPPER=extruder ENABLE=0
M117 unload_filament accomplished!
Design of the FLSun S1
The FLSun S1 is a delta printer with three slender carbon fiber arms that slide up and down on belt-driven rails. It’s a really tall, very broad machine wrapped in a metal enclosure and weighs about 95 kilos. Put together accordingly.
It has a smooth, futuristic look with the very best management display screen I’ve ever seen on a 3D printer. The glass panel blends seamlessly into the machine’s entrance and presents massive, clear textual content and graphics, together with a speedometer to indicate off how briskly the print head is whirling.
The spool holder is about inside a built-in filament drier. It could actually function whereas the printer is operating or idle, permitting you to prep filament earlier than use or hold it dry throughout printing. There aren’t any temperature settings for the dryer – simply an on/off change and a timer. A humidity gauge suggests how moist the chamber is however appears to be wildly inaccurate. At one level it stated the humidity was 2%, whereas a separate hygrometer says it was 45%. The temperature can be off by a drastic quantity, with the display screen saying 54.8C, nevertheless it was 80.7F (26.6C) on my thermometer. For the file, we would like the dry field to be between 40 and 50C for PLA and as much as 65C for PETG.
The spindle is mounted on a load sensor to estimate how a lot of the spool has been used. Nevertheless, it assumes you’re utilizing an “common” 1kg spool with none solution to regulate for the beginning weight of the spool or half-sized spools. I feel the function remains to be helpful to present you a common thought of how a lot materials is likely to be left.
The FLSun runs Klipper with a vanilla Mainsail interface. It comes with a digicam mounted inside, so there’s no fuss getting monitoring arrange. The digicam may take timelapse movies, nevertheless it solely saves one by one. It has a fish eye lens to suit its monumental construct quantity contained in the body.
The machine has two USB ports on the entrance, and likewise connects by way of Wi-Fi.
The FLSun S1 boasts speeds as much as 1200mm/s, which it makes use of for journey strikes. Its print velocity tops out at 800mm/s and is used for infill. The partitions are tried at 500 mm/s. And I say try as a result of operating the printer at full velocity usually leads to poor high quality or prints knocked up and about. The picture beneath reveals a sword pommel that was spoiled as a result of the machine vibrated a lot the half was always wiggling.
The S1 makes use of a CPAP blower to offer the large quantity of cooling wanted for a printer operating at these speeds. It’s violently noisy, with a high-pitched whine that makes pondering troublesome. Fortunately, you possibly can flip the fan all the way down to 85% to get some noise reduction whereas nonetheless cooling your components sufficiently.
Mattress adhesion at full velocity is troublesome for this printer, regardless of the great PEI coating on its versatile plate. The guide advises utilizing glue stick for all prints, however there isn’t a reminder such as you would see on the cool engineering plates of different manufacturers. It is a exhausting lesson to be taught, and forgetting is painful. I bought a print wrapped across the nozzle so unhealthy it traveled upward into the fan. This required changing a lot of the instrument head, and FLSun was form sufficient to swap out your entire printer and let me strive once more.
That stated, the FLSun S1’s hotend is superb. The throat of the hotend is drilled out like a CHT nozzle to offer excessive circulate, whereas the nozzle itself is a typical detachable V6.
Getting ready Recordsdata / Software program
FLSun determined to make its personal slicer, piggybacking off PrusaSlicer from the appears of it. The slicer itself is okay, however the presets are missing. I needed to do some critical tuning to get the printer to cease over-extruding and making my ears bleed with fan noise.
A profile for OrcaSlicer has been launched to the FLSun Wiki, which helps, however you continue to have to tone down the fan and filament circulate. I set the half cooling fan to 85% and materials circulate to 0.9, making it extra manageable.
Printing on the FLSun S1
Floor high quality on the FLSun S1 may be very clean, however the included customized slicer does it no justice. My prints utilizing FLSun’s slicer have been terribly inaccurate, horribly over extruded and vulnerable to fails. Switching to OrcaSlicer improved the standard, however I nonetheless needed to tone down the circulate to 0.9 within the filament profile.
The velocity boat for this Delta printer is the quickest I’ve printed on any machine. The five hundred-gram pattern spool was extra beneficiant than most, however you’ll nonetheless wish to purchase a full-sized spool immediately. Take a look at our listing of the greatest filaments for 3D printing right here.
A Pace Benchy must observe sure guidelines: two partitions, three high and backside layers, 10 % grid infill, a 0.25 layer peak, and a 0.5 layer width. Like a number of the newer quick printers, this machine is quicker than my default settings of 300mm/s. The S1 ripped by means of the earlier file with a blazing 12-minute and 48-second boat, topping our listing of the quickest 3D printers.
This boat is a bit squashy on the roof, and the porthole is a bit oval. Nevertheless it’s nonetheless loads higher than many velocity boats I’ve run previously 12 months or two.
Bear in mind: When racing a 3D Printer, it is extra about printing a “Benchy Formed Object” than actual high quality.
This was printed in unusual grey Inland PLA, so not one of the defects are hidden.
I printed a couple of checks with the pattern spool of white PLA supplied with the printer. You’ll undoubtedly want to buy some extra. To see my favourite supplies to make use of, try our information to the Greatest Filaments for 3D Printing.
I printed quite a lot of PLA whereas testing this printer, however essentially the most irritating was this collapsible sword with an admittedly troublesome hilt. You want a really dependable printer to get these sabers to end up, however no quantity of tuning with the customized slicer was in a position to make this work, with bits of spaghetti showing on the high and the blades oozing collectively on the backside.
Switching to Orca Slicer lastly gave me a print that labored. Utilizing Creality Hyper PLA, the ultimate sword was printed with a 0.2 layer peak at 500mm/s and took two hours and 28 minutes to print. The print was clean, with no seen layer strains, apart from the underside of the guard, the place it bought a bit sloppy. This print would have taken an unusual mattress slinger, just like the Prusa MK4, a bit over seven hours to print.
The drier got here in useful for this PETG print. You possibly can see the development in high quality, with the undried filament on the left trying a bit tough and the smoother dried print on the correct. This print makes use of Greengate Translucent Purple Petg with a medallion and lid of Polymaker Gold PLA and Proto Pasta Empire Strikes Black. It was printed utilizing FLSun’s slicer turned all the way down to 60mm/s and a pause at peak command to swap the filament colours. The jar took one hour and 58 minutes to print, plus one other 22 minutes for the lid, and about 6 minutes for the medallion. That is rather less than two and a half hours of complete print time.
It did surprisingly properly on TPU as soon as I slowed it down a bit. Working the filament by means of the secondary entry level is very really useful, as that bypasses a number of toes of Bowden tube. I made this bone formed canine toy in TinkerCad that turned out with good clean layers and an excellent high end. I used the Inland Rainbow TPU and it printed in 52 minutes at 0.2 layer peak and 60mm/s velocity.
I examined ABS (utilizing Polymaker Galaxy Orange ABS) for this RC automotive half with the customized slicer, and it was totally too quick – inflicting poor layer adhesion. It additionally knocked over the tree helps every of the 3 times I attempted this print. With a little bit of tuning, I might make this work. I gave up and printed this half on the QIDI Tech Q1 since I wanted it for MRRF and couldn’t waste extra of my orange ABS.
Backside Line
The FLSun S1 is a irritating hunk of equipment that’s so near great and but so removed from it. Nobody ought to pay $1,500 for a machine that wants this a lot tuning to carry out properly. The plus facet is it runs vanilla Klipper firmware and may be switched to OrcaSlicer for many who don’t thoughts an costly tinkering mission.
For everybody else, I recommend they wait and see if enhancements are made to the firmware to filter the odd little bugs.
In the event you’re nonetheless excited about an amazing Delta printer, the FLSun V400 has seen nice enhancements in its firmware since we reviewed it, and it’s on sale for $549. Or for those who want an excellent enclosed printer with a big construct quantity, I’d advocate the Creality K1 Max, at the moment going for $759.
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